Holiday in Prague

All Saints’ Day (November 1) is a national holiday in Slovakia, with no classes at the University, so this seemed like a good opportunity to visit Prague. After two months of living and working in the Slovak Republic, I was especially curious about this much larger city that had once been part of the former Czechoslovakia.

So many friends and family have told me how much they love Prague, and I can see the attraction for tourists. The city’s population is 1.5 million, about the same size as Vienna and over three times the size of Bratislava. Yet much is similar.

Most poignant for me is the shared political history of what are now two nations. Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square) was the site of celebrations for liberation from the Nazis in 1945, the challenge to the Soviet tanks crushing the Prague Spring of 1968, and the downfall of Communism in 1989. This Square is now a bustling and very crowded commercial area, with its share of scruffiness, litter, and rebellious young people, reminding me of the mood of Times Square in New York. That's the National Museum in the distance at the end of the Square.

This marker with inscription is on the sidewalk at the end of Václavské náměstí in front of the National Museum. It honors Jan Palach, who set fire to himself in 1969 protesting the Soviet repression. Fresh flowers and a steady stream of tourists marked the site.

Everywhere, revitalization and renewal emerge against the backdrop of decay left by the Communists. This juxtaposition of an empty concrete monstrosity next to a meticulously restored historic building on Václavské náměstí is typical of sights throughout both Prague and Bratislava.

The tram systems seem the same. The cars are small. I have seen a few bicycles in Prague, but not many, as in Bratislava. All those cobblestone streets and tram tracks seem to make bicycling difficult. Vienna is lightyears ahead of both in making that city bicycle-friendly.

My students have educated me that Czech and Slovak are two different languages, with variations in spelling, pronunciations, and some words, although they can understand each other. Bilingual signs and tour groups are common in both Prague and Bratislava, as is McDonald’s, where the counter clerks speak passable English and take credit cards. Tesco has a big store in central Prague.

Many familiar commercial names are found in both cities -- along with innovative marketing ideas. Here, T-Mobile has joined forces with a chain of coffee houses.

Graffiti is nasty in all three cities, once you get away from the restored historic buildings. I decided not to post pictures of it, as an ethical matter. With so much to see in this bustling city, it will take me awhile to post all the interesting pictures I’ve been taking.

Travel tips: Prague is a four-hour train ride from Bratislava. When the Czech border agent comes through to check passports, he will give you a stamp if you ask, so I am adding to my collection.

I took a very nice Intercity train operated by the German railway system. This one originated in Budapest and terminated in Hamburg. The round-trip fare for first-class was only 1183 SKK (about $48) so I splurged. Most of the cars were for second-class, which is also very modern and comfortable, but more crowded. (I mistakenly boarded on a second-class car, so I walked through several.) I bought the ticket at the Bratislava train station about an hour before the train’s departure at the international counter, where the clerks speak English and take credit cards. RailEurope sells a round-trip ticket for the identical trains and times to American travelers for $166 for first-class and $110 for second class. As with my Vienna ticket last month, I am amazed that they sell those tickets for more than three times the cost at the train station.

The train had a very modern dining car with complete menus in German and English and excellent food and latte. They take credit cards, charging in Euros. Here's the first class car, with only three seats in each row. The second-class cars are four seats across.

NOTE: Click on any image in this blog to see it full-size.