Religious freedom

Some of my students asked me how celebrations of Christmas compared with what I was seeing in Bratislava. I noted that the U.S. has plenty of green and red Christmas decorations, but we also see a lot of blue and silver recognizing Hanukkah, especially in larger cities and stores.

I have seen this mix of Christmas and Hanukkah colors in only one place here, the Radisson SAS Carlton Hotel, on the left, just east of the U.S. Embassy.

Menorahs can be seen in the windows of the Radisson's main restaurant, suggesting that the blue lights in front were not just an accidental decorating choice.

As part of an international hotel chain, it's understandable that the Radisson would demonstrate such religious open-mindedness. But there is a delicious historical footnote here. On March 25, 1988, Communists officials watched from the windows of this very hotel, then called The Carlton, at what is known as the "Candle Demonstration."

This peaceful demonstration for religious freedom is recognized as the first anti-Communist protest leading up to the fall of Communism in late 1989. Estimates vary, but anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000 demonstrators filled Hviezdoslavovo námestie in front of the hotel. The Slovak secret police tried to block entrance into the square, used water cannons to try to disperse the crowd, and arrested 100 organizers, anti-Communist dissident Catholics. The demonstration had been publicized on Radio Free Europe and the Voice of America.

A large engraved rock on the ground here commemorates the demonstration. It is in front of the Church of Notre Dame just east of the hotel.

Here's a better view of the Church, which includes a monastery and dates to the mid-18th century. That tall statue on the right is yet another example of the dizzying layers of history here. The inscription, in Slovak, says it is a tribute to the Soviet Army for liberating a grateful Bratislava.

Here is a clearer view of the Soviet statue. I could not find any inscription with date or attribution at the site. I wonder why this hasn't been moved to a less prominent location.

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