Mozart City

Salzburg is justifiably famous as the birthplace and principal residence of Mozart, and tourist attractions are everywhere you turn here.

Mozart’s birthplace is on the west side of the Salzer River that runs through town. It’s the yellow building, centrally located on Getreidegasse, the main shopping street.

Here's a view of the entrance, with the museum's cafe next door. This is a large, impressive house. Mozart was obviously not born in poverty.

No pictures were allowed inside, but it underwent a very strange renovation in 2004 by the American artist Robert Wilson. It does have lots of historic objects under glass, including the 1/2 size violin he learned to play, and a piano he played. But Wilson has created exhibits in several rooms that are jarring. E.g., inspired by Mozart's statement that he wanted to turn music "upside-down," Wilson created an upside-down room. The floor is speckled blue to represent the sky. The ceiling has a sculptured relief of the city of Salzburg hanging upside-down. On the walls are beautiful framed drawings of historic buildings -- all hung upside-down. Okay. We get it.

Mozart’s residence for many years is on the opposite side of the river. Much of it was destroyed in 1944 in Allied bombings, but it has been reconstructed and is filled with historic documents, scores, and pianos Mozart played. It also has an interactive map showing Mozart’s travels around Europe, and a film, with music and audio sets in a range of languages.

Here’s a store selling the famous Mozart candy MozartKugeln, by Mirabell, sold in just about every location with a cash register in Salzburg. You can actually buy this all over central Europe. The ingredients statement on the back of the box is in nine languages. It's delicious, by the way -- chocolates filled with praline paste and marzipan.

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