I am visiting Salzburg, Austria, for a few days. I had originally thought this would make an interesting visit during Christmas week, but the hotel rates soar then, so I’m here early. The place is jammed with holiday shoppers, but I didn't hear many English-speakers, so perhaps these are locals and visitors from nearby places.
This is the Salzach River that cuts through town, with plenty to see on both sides. It’s cold here (in the 20s). Snow is on the ground and visible on all the mountains that surround the city, but it’s clear and sunny, and the scenery is quite beautiful.
Salzburg has two world-famous attractions. It was the home of Mozart and the city extolls him at every opportunity year-round, not just at the famous summer festival. The other big attraction, at least for Americans, is the classic Rogers and Hammerstein film The Sound of Music, which was shot on location here and in neighboring areas. I'll do separate entries on those.
This city celebrates Christmas -- no PC here, no "Season's Greetings," no "Happy Holidays." Bill O'Reilly and Mike Huckabee would love it. The city is filled with stores like this one, "Christmas in Salzburg."
The outdoor Christmas markets popular in central Europe are jammed into every square available. Austrians take their dogs everywhere. I saw some in the subway passageways in Vienna. A woman with her dog walked into a restaurant where I was having lunch, although they didn't stay. But I also noticed that they are conscientious in cleaning up after them.
A performance artist, dressed in green as the Statue of Liberty, was in one of the Christmas market areas. He would slowly bow whenever someone gave him a donation.
A skating rink is in constant use outside the Salzburg Museum by Mozartplatz. It was brisk for outdoor skating, but this is a country that produces an inordinate number of world-class skiers, so I suppose they are used to the cold.
Salzburg is as bicycle-friendly as Vienna. Separate lanes for pedestrians and bicycles are marked throughout the city, and bike racks are in use all over town, even in this cold. Here, bike racks outside Mirabell Palace are covered for protection from the elements.
Philosopher Friederich Schiller is honored here, as he is in Vienna. This statue is by one of the buildings of the University of Salzburg.
The University has several buildings in the middle of town. This one is across from Festival Hall where the Mozart concerts are held. The University traces its origins to 1622, but it was closed down for centuries. It re-opened in 1964.
Salzburg is an easy train ride from Bratislava. First I took the one-hour shuttle from Bratislava to Vienna. It’s then a picturesque three-hour ride west to Salzburg through snow-covered villages and mountains, with trains leaving almost every hour. The round-trip first-class fare was only $96, far less than half what RailEurope charges. I have never bothered with seat reservations, although I suppose they might be useful during the busiest holiday season.
NOTE: Click on any image in this blog to see it full-size.
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